I was hunting with my brother, Jim, toward the end of
this year’s deer season. We were walking along what had been a main-haul
road during recent lumbering operations. We were heading for a piece of
cover that somehow had escaped both the big fires and the wind storms that
once raged through the area and had only been high-graded when timbered.
We had a respectful walk ahead of us and, as sometimes happens when the
tedium of a long walk weighs on you, we found ourselves talking non-stop.
We pretty much solved most of the world’s problems, including profound
topics such as who would be the NBA’s next MVP and what name should be
given to the next decade (zero, Ohs, double ohs, aughts? etc., etc.).
We also discussed the mule tracks we had been observing. The tracks had
been frozen into semi permanence on the gravel road surface, almost as
if they had been cast in plaster.
The interim classification for the newly acquired state land we were on
was wilderness. No bicycles, no motorized vehicles, no horses, etc., etc.
Mules, it seems got an OK when the hunting party using them (in their words)
“threw a curve at the D.E.C” “Mules,” they argued, “are not horses.” We
wondered that if I used my uni-cycle I could argue it was not a bicycle.
I’m not certain we came to any general agreement on that question, but
I think (?) we agreed that mules (and bicycles) were certainly appropriate
in that particular location. We might have even agreed that the classification
system is flawed.
By this time, we had reached a sturdy, well-built plank bridge over the
outlet of Little Salmon Lake just before it empties its waters into Lily
Pad Pond. Many years ago, my wife and I had carried our canoe upstream
alongside the rapids that exist at this point. We were trying to find traces
of the Mac and Mac railroad the O.W.D. had used to carry its logs from
Rock Lake on Whitney to the Brandeth Station on the main New York Central
Line. It was used only for three years, 1936-1939, before the tracks were
pulled, but the ties were left in place and provided a marvelous artery
through a very remote and seldom-visited place. Where the swift water ended
on that portage we encountered a massive stone wall that was effectively
a dam. The rocks making up the wall were enormous, and we both marveled
how they could have been put in place long before the day of mechanized
equipment. Some time later I ran into Bernie Dunham, who was employed at
Whitney, and he told me that his father, Sanford Dunham, had been involved
in building that wall possibly as a fish barrier. “How did they procure
and move and place those huge rocks?” I asked. “They used oxen,” he replied,
providing the answer to our puzzle.
As we carried our canoe around the rock dam that day, I stumbled upon a
hidden cache of at least 20 well-oiled beaver traps in good condition.
I never knew for certain, but I always suspected they belonged to some
Tupper Lake trappers, Howard LeBlanc, Jack Dewyea, and Percy Trombley.
This trio of first-rate trappers had been given privileges to trap the
Salmon Lake watershed by the folks at Whitney Park. This was about the
same time I happened upon the traps (mid-1950s).
At that time Tom Fortune owned a J-1 Piper Cub, which he had equipped with
skis, and he would fly the trappers and their gear in and out of Salmon
Lake, landing on the frozen surface. Tom did this as a good-neighbor gesture.
It also provided him with an interesting and adventuresome break from his
duties at the hardware store.
As it turned out, it was almost too great an adventure.
Late one March day at the end of the trapping season, Tom landed on the
lake and prepared to fly out the group, including their fur and gear. his
plan was to take the gear out on the first flight and on subsequent trips
fly the trappers out.
Tom tells the story best: “I loaded everything I could on that little plane.
What I couldn’t stuff in the cockpit, I strapped to the wings. I knew it
was a heavy load,” he told me at the time, “but it’s a big lake with plenty
of room to get up speed for the take-off. I taxied to the far end, but
as I powered back up the lake, I ran into a large patch of shell ice, which
gave way and dropped me down to the main ice sheet. I still had fair forward
speed, but the drop lowered the plane, and the prop was dangerously close
to hitting the surface ahead of me. It was a frightening moment, and I
immediately cut the engine. I jumped out of that plane and, to be truthful,
I was plenty scared, and the adrenalin was pumping through me like a race
horse approaching the finish line.
Meanwhile, the guys on shore, sensing
my predicament, started running out to me. By the time they arrived, I
had that gear unloaded and sitting on the ice. I was cussing my stupidity
at being overloaded and worrying about my beautiful plane being marooned
on that isolated lake with the threat of ice-out only days away. I had
two of the trappers rock first one wing and then the other, while the third
guy and I pushed. I had the cockpit door open with throttle slightly advanced,
and when we got the plane up on solid surface, I jumped in and took off.
That was it for me! I felt sorry for those guys left on the lake. They
had a very long walk out with a lot of gear. I didn’t worry about them
because they were tough, seasoned woodsmen and I knew they could handle
it. As for me, I had pushed the envelope far enough, thank you. I never
went back.”
Incredibly, it had been over forty years since Ginny and I had portaged
past this spot, where Jim and I now sat eating our lunch. It was not the
same place! Only the rock wall remained the same. Not only the hand of
man had morphed this dynamic change. Nature was the greater villain. In
the 1980s a highly localized tornado, which came down in a narrow, nasty
swirl of destructive power, flattened thousands of trees. In July of 1995
a straight-line storm called a Derecho totaled what the circular winds
of the tornado had left standing. Jim noted my dejection at the havoc that
surrounded us. Far more philosophical (and wiser) than I, he offered this
counsel: “Bill it is a natural process, just a blib in time. The forest
will actually renew and thrive, become more diverse in the wake of these
disturbances. Have faith, brother.”
