When the author S.H. Hammond boated across Tupper Lake in 1850, he noted his impressions in a book entitled Rambles of a Journalist, published in 1855. He waxed downright poetic in describing the beauty of Big Tupper Lake, walled in by primeval forest, with quiet bays stealing back behind craggy promontories and islands, some of which he likened to domed cathedrals and some to rocky and ruined battlements soaring straight up 60 feet from the dark waters of the lake.
That view has changed little. Norway Island and Bluff Island (with its Devil’s Pulpit and sheer walls of granite), Grindstone and Bridge Brook bays remain, for example, absolute and protected gems in the necklaces of islands and many bays that make Tupper Lake so special and so increasingly rare in the present-day hunger for a “place on the lake” that is invading the Adirondacks.
There were only two settlers on the lake when Hammond wrote of that 1850 visit, “The one is at the outlet and the other at the head of the lake.” The first, he wrote, “a fisherman and a hunter, who has some two or three acres cleared raising simply vegetables for his family. Taking the world easy, seldom sweating from hard labor or tired from real work.”
“The other settler is a lumberman, energetic and industrious, who has small taste for hunting or fishing. He has some forty acres cleared, a good log house for his family. This family is eight miles from the nearest neighbor, fifty miles from a doctor, the same distance from a school house or church.”
Note: This was probably S.S. Jenkins, for whom the bay beyond Rock Island Bay on the Tupper – Long Lake highway was named. He later moved up the lake near the former American Legion Mountain Camp. His place became a favorite boarding and sleeping quarters for the many lumbermen and river drivers during early logging operations on the Big Bog, Little Tupper, etc. areas.
Hammond would have been startled beyond belief had he been on the lake this past weekend during the Rod and Gun Club Fishing Derby. With good ice conditions measuring from 18 to 24 inches and a cloudless, sun-filled day, the lake was a beehive of activity. One seasonal camp owner here for the weekend was fascinated by the scene, remarking: “It looked like I-90 out there. More people zipped up the lake on Saturday afternoon than I will observe in an entire summer.”
Once camp on the lake that traditionally plays host during the ice derby had, in an admittedly hasty count, at least 40 snow machines, pickup trucks and 4-wheelers parked on the ice in front of the camp on Saturday afternoon. There was an “all are welcome” ambience, the quintessential Adirondack spirit of “the latch is open,” which is, unfortunately, in the time of needed security, fast becoming an anachronism.
As one of the fishermen enjoying the day said to me, “Is this a great place to live, or what? This is a winter wonderland – we are so lucky to live here!”
That handsome log camp recently constructed by the owners is located on the west shore between Grindstone and Bridge Brook bays. It is very near what was formerly one of the earliest camps built on the lake in the 1890s before it was destroyed by fire in 1936.
Perhaps that story will be of interest to readers. What follows is excerpted from the Old Timer’s Column in Dec. 3, 1936, issue of the Tupper Lake Free Press, written by the late Almon Clarke. Note that the property described is still owned by Warren Slater III, a grandson. Warren grew up here on Racquette River Drive (John Quinn home) and presently has a summer home (formerly W.D. Wilson/DeSilva property) at Moody.
The column follows:
“Do you remember forty years ago when a fine group of camps was erected for Mr. and Mrs. John Sprague on the west shore of Big Tupper Lake, between Grindstone and Bridge Brook bays?
“The fire that occurred last Thursday (Thanksgiving Day) and destroyed three of the large main buildings and a 16 x 20 tent cabin structure on the 90-acre tract preserve, formerly occupied for many years by Mr. and Mrs. John Sprague of New York City, has recalled to old timers some of the details in connection with the camps that date back for forty or more years. The site is located on the west shore of Big Tupper Lake midway between Grindstone and Bridge Brook bays.
“It was originally part of the 1,100-acre park purchased from the International Paper Company by the late Colonel William Barbour who established and made famous the Paradise Point estate.
“The Colonel John Sprague camps – nine in all – were erected on the 90-acre tract of virgin forest, in early history days known as the “Moores Camp Grounds.” The main building was a 30 x 60 structure with a 16-foot ceiling and was connected with the other main buildings by ample covered walks. There was also a boat house, a guide house for men’s quarters, a building for the maids, an ice house and cooler and all the camps were luxuriously furnished and contained all modern conveniences.
Electricity had never been installed, but there were eighty lamps in the several camps. The cuisine was equipped with every modern device for preparing meals for the many summer guests and the lakefront is protected by a 120-foot solid concrete sea-wall. On the property there was also a private camp for Colonel Barbour’s mother, known as the 'Leaning Maple,' so-called for a large maple tree that tilted at an apparently dangerous angle yet provided shade for the camp.”
Note: Mrs. Barbour, whose mother once had a camp in the 1880s on what is now Litchfield’s Lake Madeleine, was a strong, independent lady. She had her own guides headed by Charles Simons and was an excellent woodswoman who loved to hunt and fish.
“After the demise of Colonel Barbour and Colonel Sprague, the property lagged in interest to the survivors – including Mrs. William Barbour and her four sons, Thomas, Robert, Warren and Frederick Barbour, all of whom were ardent summer and fall visitors yearly to the beauty spot, well named Paradise Point Park by Colonel Barbour.
“During the settlement of the estates, the late Warren J. Slater and his son, Francis H. Slater, acquired title of the Sprague 90-acre tract, now the property of F.H. Slater.
“The transfer was made of the Sprague property in 1920, one year before the death of Warren J. Slater, who was a pioneer guide and boat builder in Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake and the first secretary of the Adirondack Guides Association, nearly half a century ago.”
Note: Slater founded one of the early partnerships to build guide boats – Slater and Ack Moody Inc. Other builders at that time were Alex Murchison of Moody, Lute Owen and, later (1936), Leonard Anderson and Daniel Hinkson. These early local builders have not gained the recognition they deserve. This is due partly to the praise of writers who have created their own culture heroes. New studies and a renaissance in guide boat building may correct this shortcoming.
“Last summer (1935) while a party of local people were in the camp during a terrific electrical storm Miss Priscilla Martin of this village was struck by lightning as she was unlocking the front door to the camp.
“The door was torn loose, and much damage was caused by the bolt, but no fire resulted.
“Miss Martin was picked up with life apparently extinct. A New Jersey life guard, a member of the party, used artificial respiration methods and in 30 minutes Miss Martin regained consciousness.
“She was hospitalized for several days but has since recovered her usual health.
“Last week on Thanksgiving Day occurred the burning of the three main buildings with all furnishings, at a loss of $18,000, partly insured.
“Mr. Slater was in camp to see that everything was secure for the winter. Unable to cross the lake by boat due to ice, he had driven his car to the Legion camp and started through the woods around the head of Bridge Brook Pond, a difficult trail even in good weather. The snow was deep, and it took him two and a half hours to reach his camps where he arrived in a semi-exhausted condition with limbs torn and bleeding and chilled through and through.
“He built fires in two stoves and the main fireplace and planned to stay overnight. He had no food except two doughnuts, as he expected to return home as soon as camp inspection was over.
“His suffering was intense, and then came the fire which he believes was caused by flying sparks. His description of the frantic efforts to stop the flames makes a harrowing tale.
“He chopped a hole in the ice in the lake to obtain water, but all his efforts were futile, and he had to stand by and hysterically watch his valuable property go up in smoke.
“When Mr. Slater finally got back to Tupper Lake he was under the care of Dr. T.J. Collinson for several days.”