You will need a sparkling clear day with lots of sunshine. A day toward the end of March is best. Winter snows have usually consolidated by that time, making optimum conditions for travel by ski or snowshoe. In addition, the days are longer at that time of year, but the angle of the sun is still lower, an important ingredient for the observation that you will be seeking.
The goal is the summit of Mt. Morris, a modest, pleasant climb with special views that extend unobstructed for up to 25 miles on all points of the compass; a panorama of high country and lake-studded forest as well as this community’s very own mountain loved by generations of Tupper Lakers, who have discovered its many charms.
The summit of our friendly mountain was once totally wooded, but is today denuded – a bold dome of exposed anorthosite, the trees having long ago been cut to establish sight lines to other signal towers by an early surveyor.
A note of trivia: In 1890, when early settlers here demanded – and got – their own townships (they were originally under the Town of Waverly), they needed a name. Mt. Morris, at 3,163 feet, dominated the landscape and thus Altamont, from the Latin “alta,” meaning high, and “mont,” meaning mountain, was chosen.
You will pass a cluster of small buildings, each humming its own signal to enhance today’s hi-tech communication network. You will also pass what is the first steel fire tower to be built in the Adirondacks (July 1909).
Aerial surveillance has made the tower’s original function obsolete, but it remains structurally strong as ever – a tribute to its designers, the Aeromotor Windmill Company (note that the state no longer maintains the tower and the mountain’s summit, and its access requires permission from various private owners).
Go to the south, facing part of the mountain where the earth seems to have fallen away, leaving a steep cliff face. Looking almost due south, you will spot a beautiful sheet of water called Lake Madeleine surrounded by what appears to be miles of unbroken forest.
If you have timed it right, as the sun begins its descent to the west, you will observe an ethereal glow of color, a mix of orange and rose, that is as startling and beautiful as it is mysterious. The source of this reflection? The legendary Litchfield Chateau and the more than 50 windows that face Lake Madeleine, one of the Adirondack’s most fascinating structures. The chateau sits back from the lake, situated by its builder, Edward Litchfield, so that it is in perfect harmony with its pristine surroundings. If that appears to be a paradox, so be it.
You will need binoculars from your vantage point to pick out the two great towers rising so impressively above the tree line – “a bit of Bavaria in the North Country woods,” as one writer describes it, who noted further that the grandson of the builder affectionately called it an anachronism of the first order as well as a magnificent Edwardian dream.
Many readers will be familiar with this storied place, but readers who have not had that opportunity or are unaware of its existence may find the following excerpt, from a newspaper column found in a 1932 Free Press edition, of some general interest. The column was written by Rufus, the pen name of A. Clark, Jr. Mr. Clark was an energetic newspaper columnist as well as the local postmaster during the construction of the castle/chateau, which was completed in 1913. Excerpts from his column follows:
Edward Litchfield first came to the Adirondacks in the summer of 1893. He is a noted attorney and realtor of New York City and a multi-millionaire.
His first purchase was the south third of township 25, known as the Gilchrist tract. Later he bought the middle third of the same township called the King tract. Both tracts having been previously lumbered over nearly a half century ago by the Norword Manufacturing Company.
A few years later he sold the east half of the King tract to Read & Strange, wealthy New York bankers, which included the beautiful body of water then called Simond Pond but changed to Lake Wilbert by the owners of Read & Strange Park (now Little Simond Pond).
After selling the large tract of land to the above firm, Mr. Litchfield still retained about 13,000 acres for his park, in which are located Lake Madeleine (formerly Jenkins Pond), Heaven Lake, Duck Lake and Lake St. Hubert.
After Mr. Litchfield acquired the property, he erected a camp for his family to live in when visiting the preserve. Then a force of workmen enclosed 8,000 acres with an 8-foot wire fence, with heavy posts set quite close together, to insure greater strength. This enclosure was intended as a wild game sanctuary to preserve the large numbers of deer frequenting that section.
In 1894, a large force of men began clearing a 40-acre tract on which the spacious farm buildings were erected and still stand.
The land proved to be fertile and large quantities of hay, grain and farm produce have been annually raised for consumption by the stock and employees on the estate.
Several other buildings were erected in the park and many miles of stone roads formed an outlet from all parts of the property, converging at the main entrance.
Eight miles from Tupper Lake on the Long Lake road, the fence skirted the highway (Note: This was the old highway) and at a point near the crest of the famous “Litchfield Hill” was located at the main entrance.
The entrance was guarded by an attendant who was on duty year round, living in a stone gate house erected just inside the fence (now leased as a hunting camp).
For 38 years the position of watchman was faithfully filled by Antoine J. Robitaille, who had been in Mr. Litchfield’s employ for 41 years at the time of his death. During the last few years of Mr. Robitaille’s advancing age, Xavier Mareil of Tupper Lake was engaged as his assistant and companion.
In 1911-1912 Mr. Litchfield built the “Chateau,” intended to stand through the ages to come as a perpetual monument to his name.
It is a stately structure, built in the style of ancient feudal castles, such as was visited by the owner during his trips to European and other foreign countries.
It was built from solid granite blocks, quarried nearby, hewn and shaped by expert stone cutters skilled in the art. There are two great towers at either corner in front, built rampart style, like those of centuries ago, when lords and princes erected castles for defense.
Every window on the lower floors is protected by heavy iron bars set in solid rock and concrete. In the basement is a dungeon, protected by stone doors which may be opened only by touching certain concealed and secret devices.
The dungeon is used for storing valuable and its existence would not be noticeable to the casual visitor, if it were not pointed out to him.
(continued next week)